Welcome to
The Bunny Business
(We are located
just outside of Casa Grande in Arizona)
We currently are
raising MiniRex rabbits and have 8 babies for
sale $25-$35.
We are going to
expand our business to include other breeds such as Holland
Lops, Polish and Lion Heads.
Please email us if
you have any questions.
Email: [email protected]
Broken Black
MiniRex “Cowboy” “Dolla”
buck with
pedigree 8 month MiniRex Buck 6 month Mixed Breed
(available June
4th) with
pedigree
$35 $25 $10
Bunny Facts
·
Rabbits can
live to be 7-10 years old.
·
They can be
litterbox trained.
·
Rabbits are
sociable animals.
·
Rabbits should
be spayed or neutered if they are not bred.
·
Most rabbits
like to be held and sit beside you.
·
Bunnies like to
play with toys, such as cardboard boxes, cat balls, parrot toys, and paper
towel rolls.
·
Rabbits need
their own things to chew on or they might chew on your stuff.
·
Rabbits need to
be protected from predators, poisons, temperature extremes, electrical cords,
and rough handling.
·
Rabbits must be
kept cool during hot weather. Temperatures above 90 degrees can be fatal!
·
Rabbits need
daily exercise.
Checklist of Supplies:
q Cage
q Feed bowl
q Water bottle or crock
q Litterbox and litter if going to litter box train
q Feed pellets
q Timothy hay
q Toys
q Exercise Area
Is A Rabbit The Right Pet
For You?
Compared to dogs, rabbits are a fairly easy pet to own. They don't need to be walked every day, and can be left alone for several hours a day without having to worry about bathroom breaks. On the other hand, they are NOT maintenance free pets. They need lots of attention and exercise.
Are
you the right kind of person to live with a rabbit? Rabbits are wonderful
companions for the right people but learning to live with a bunny can take some
adjusting. You must have patience and plenty of time to spend with your new
friend. You must also be comfortable spending a lot of time on the floor, and
you must learn to not be overly fussy about your house and furniture. A bunny's
home needs to be "rabbit-proofed". All electrical cords and poisonous
things that can be eaten such as plants need to be kept out of reach. If you
can't rabbit proof your entire home, you will need to have at least one room
where your rabbit can play safely or an outdoor area.
Like
other pets, rabbits may require veterinary care occasionally which could become
costly. However, they do not require vaccinations like
cats and dogs which helps to reduce their overall cost. Like other animals,
rabbits should be spayed/neutered to improve their health and behavior, if they
are not to be used for breeding. Do you have adequate financial resources to
provide veterinary care for your bunny should he or she become sick?
Will a
rabbit be a good pet for your kids? The truth is maybe not. If you buy a rabbit
as a pet for a child, you should expect to be its primary caregiver. The child
also needs to be taught how to properly handle the rabbit
because rough handling can be dangerous to a rabbit's frail skeleton. If you
are willing to take full responsibility of a rabbit for its 7-12 years of life,
then maybe a rabbit is the right
pet for you and your family. Please keep in mind that rabbits do not like to be
held for long, and they may also bite or scratch if mishandled. Therefore, you
need to properly supervise your children with the rabbit so that they learn the
right way to pet them and play with them. For these reasons, rabbits are not
recommended as pets for children under 8 years old.
Will
your other pets get along with your bunny? The first thing you need to remember
about rabbits and other animals is that rabbits are prey animals, and they can
be easily injured. Cats can learn to get along with a bunny with the right
training. They pose less of a risk to a rabbit than a dog. Cats, just playing
can take a swat at a rabbit and leave not so much as a scratch. Dogs, on the
other hand, can kill a rabbit with one quick snap of their jaws. Rabbits should
be introduced slowly to other pets. Start with your cat or dog on a leash with
the rabbit in its cage. If your cat is not declawed you should trim its claws.
ALWAYS supervise your other pets with your bunny. Even in play your other pets
can kill your beloved bunny without meaning to. Some people have also had success
keeping rabbits and guinea pigs together.
Please
take into consideration all the things mentioned above before you take on the
responsibility of rabbit ownership. Too many rabbits are abandoned every year
because their owner didn't take the time to think it over.
Rabbit Care Guide
The information contained on this page comes from a variety of sources. You should consult a licensed veterinarian with any questions about your rabbit's health!
Housing
There
are many styles of cages to choose from depending on whether you plan to keep
your rabbit inside or outside. The important things to consider when choosing a
cage is ease of cleaning, adequate size, and most important does it provide
adequate shelter for your rabbit where you will be placing the cage.
I
currently house my bunnies in a barn equipped with an fan and misters. The barn
stays under 90 degrees in the summer. These are comfortable temperatures for me
as well as my bunnies. I find that all-wire cages work the best for me due to
their ease in cleaning. I do provide something for the rabbits to rest their
feet on such as a square of plywood or sheetrock. The resting board can be
discarded and replaced when it becomes soiled.
There
are many ideas as to what size cage a rabbit needs. Small breed such as Netherland
Dwarfs and Hollands can get by with a 24"X24" cage. Medium breeds
need cages about 30"X30", and the large breeds need cages
36"X30" or larger. Rabbits should be let out of their cage everyday
for exercise. If they must be confined to their cage for longer periods of time
a little bigger cage wouldn't hurt.
Under
the cages are metal pans which catch the rabbit waste. I put pine shavings in
the pan. Rabbits can also be litterbox trained. Many of my rabbits use
litterboxes in their cage. See my section on litter
training below. The rabbit's cage should be cleaned and disinfected
at least once a week, preferably more often. The ammonia fumes from their urine
can cause them to develop health problems, particularly respiratory diseases.
Rabbits outside must be protected from the weather. They do fair better in
colder weather than hot, but still need to be protected from rain or snow and
wind. High temperatures above 90 degrees are dangerous to rabbits. When it gets
this hot you can put frozen 2-liter bottles of water in their cage to keep them
cool. Misting their ears with water also helps. Wetting down the roof of an
outdoor building or hutch can cool the temperature as much as 10 degrees. Fans
place near cages but not blowing directly on the rabbits can help take the edge
off. A window air conditioner in an outdoor building is very beneficial when it
is really hot. Outdoor hutches and buildings should be placed where there is
some shade also. In cold weather, bunnies need extra hay or straw to keep warm
and need to be shielded from the cold wind.
Feeding
Different
people have different ideas about how a rabbit should be fed. I would like to
present what has worked for me. I don't think my way is superior to any other
methods, because I think that rabbits are kind of like people when it comes to
food. Some rabbits can eat one thing and be fine whereas another would have
digestive problems. Also rabbits differ as much in their food preferences as
they do in their personalities.
The most
important part of the rabbit's diet should come from a good pelleted food. When
buying food pellets make sure they are fresh and aren't moldy or insect
infested. Don't buy more than one months supply of food at one time, or the
pellets will start to lose their nutritional value. Generally, one should look
for a pellet that is 16-18% protein and at least 18% fiber. I currently use
Purina Advanced Nutrition Show Formula. Foods with higher protein content (18%
and up) sometimes don't work well with the small breeds, like hollands, as they
may develop soft stools or shed more frequently. It is important to find a food
that is consistent and palatable to your rabbits. If they won't eat it then it
won't do them any good.
The
amount of pellets to feed your rabbit depends on its size and age. Up to 4
months a bunny should be fed as many pellets as he or she will eat. After that
the amount of pellets fed needs to be limited or the bunny will soon be
overweight. My hollands which range in size from 3-4 lbs. eat between a 1/3 and
a 1/2 cup of feed per day. I monitor their weight closely if they are becoming
too fat I cut down on the pellets a little, and if they are looking thin I
increase their feed. It is important to empty any old feed left in their bowls
everyday before giving them more pellets. Food bowls should also be washed
frequently.
A
second equally important part of a rabbit's diet is hay. Hay adds fiber to the
diet and keeps the rabbits digestive system working properly. I feed my bunnies
a generous handful of hay every day. Neutered pet rabbits do best if they have
access to hay at all times. Hay can do wonders for rabbits with chronic soft
stools.
There
are many types of hay you can buy. Grass hay such as timothy is recommended
over legume hay such as alfalfa. I feed my bunnies timothy and oat hay. I only
feed alfalfa as an occasional treat and in small quantities. Alfalfa can be too
rich for bunnies, and they are already getting it in their food pellets.
There
are also a number of fresh fruits and vegetables that can be fed to rabbits.
For a list of rabbit safe foods see the House Rabbit Society page at
http://www.rabbit.org/. I don't feed a lot of fresh foods as some have a
tendency to cause diarrhea in rabbits. I would recommend waiting until your
rabbit is at least 6 months old before you start feeding fresh foods. Always
add new foods one at a time and in small quantities to your rabbit's diet. Then
if there is a problem you can stop giving that particular food. Too many extra types of food can throw off
the balance of the pellet diet so they should be given only given occasionally
as treats.
Some
treats that I have found to be safe for my bunnies include sunflower seeds,
Old-fashioned oatmeal (the stuff that takes longer to cook), Calf Manna (1
Tbsp./day max.), a slice of banana or apple (not the whole thing!), or a piece
of carrot. I feed only one type of treat per day and in small amounts. APPLE SEEDS can be deadly to rabbits so
always slice an outer part of the apple as a treat.
If you
are wondering what time of day it is best to feed rabbits, it is probably early
in the morning or in the evening. This is the time they are the most active. I
feed twice a day. They get pellets in the morning, and treats and hay in the
evening. This schedule can be reversed of course, but you should stay
consistent in your feeding schedule. I prefer to feed their pellets and treats
at different times because many rabbits will pick out the "good
stuff" and leave their pellets untouched.
Rabbits need access to fresh water at all times. You can give them water in
crocks, bowls, or water bottles. Crocks and bowls should be cleaned out every
day. Water bottles are more sanitary but may freeze outdoors in the winter. The
water in bottles should be changed every couple days even if they still contain
water.
Health Check List
Proper
feeding and housing are not the only things you can do to keep your rabbit in
the best possible condition. Careful observation of your bunny is the key to
identifying any health problems early so that veterinary intervention can get
him back to feeling good quickly. The following list can help you to identify
illnesses or problems with your bunny.
1. Check your bunny's food and
water containers. Is he eating and drinking? Check water bottles to make
sure they are working properly. A bunny that is not drinking water or eating is
a sick bunny and should see a veterinarian immediately.
2. Are your bunny's droppings
normal? Check around the cage for signs of diarrhea. Check your bunny's
bottom to make sure it is clean and doesn't have dried diarrhea on it. Also
check for droppings that have a "string-of-pearl" appearance. This
could indicate an increase chance of wool block. Signs of droppings decreasing
in size or a bunny not producing any droppings is a cause for alarm. Symptoms
as described here are nothing to waste time about, see a vet immediately.
3. Are his eyes bright and clear?
Watery eyes, redness, or the presence of pus in the eyes are all signs of an
eye infection which requires attention.
4. Check ears. Do you see any
signs of wax build-up or dirt? If so this can be a sign of ear mites. The
rabbit ears should be cleaned and checked for ear mites by a vet.
5. Check nose. Does your bunny
have a runny nose? A runny nose can indicate a respiratory infection. Also he
should be wiggling his nose continuously. If he is not then he isn't feeling well.
6. Check teeth. Normally a
rabbit's top teeth should overlap the bottom teeth slightly. If the teeth meet
head-on or the bottom teeth are over the top this is termed a malloclusion. A
rabbit may not be able to eat properly with a malloclusion. While this
condition is not curable, having his teeth trimmed regularly may allow him to
live a normal, happy life. Also check for signs of broken teeth.
7. Check feet for sores. It is
a good idea to check your rabbit's feet for sores, particularly if his cage
floor is wire. Sore hocks can become infected and need medical treatment.
8. Nails. Rabbit's nail need
regular trimming. They should be checked once a month and trimmed if necessary.
They can be trimmed with regular pet nail trimmers. Be careful that you avoid
cutting the vein running into the nail. If you are not sure how to do this your
vet can show you how.
9. Check fur for fleas and mites.
If you find signs of these you rabbit needs treatment. Also check for any
wounds, cuts, or scabs on your rabbit and take appropriate action.
10. Behavior check. Is your
rabbit acting normal? Is he active and alert? Or is he listless and huddled in
a corner? Changes in your pet's behavior can be the first sign of illness.
The
best medicine is always prevention. By providing your rabbit with adequate
shelter and nutrition, along with love and attention, many illnesses can be
prevented. It is also important to find a veterinarian experienced with rabbits
before you have an emergency. See the House Rabbit Society for tips in finding a
vet in your area.
Handling Your Bunny
In order to gain the trust of your bunny, you must learn how to properly handle
her. Rabbits generally enjoy being petted on top of the head and being stroked
down their back. However, they don't like to be touched on the nose, chin, or
under the chin. This is probably a defense mechanism. Some also don't like
their feet touched. You will soon learn how your pet likes to be petted.
Learning how to properly pick up your rabbit can take some time. If you are
just learning you should wear a long sleeved shirt to protect your arms from
scratches. If a rabbit doesn't feel secure it will kick strongly with its hind
legs. You can pick up your rabbit by having it facing you on the ground. Slide
your right hand under the rabbit's side until you are supporting its chest with
this hand. Put your left hand on the rabbit rump. Scoop the rabbit up and bring
it to your chest. Move your left arm so it is a "shelf" for the
rabbit to rest on, and put your right hand on the rabbits back to keep it
still. If the rabbit is very nervous you can tuck its head under your arm and
this will calm it. One thing you should never do is pick a rabbit up by its
ears. This is painful to a rabbit. When you place your rabbit in his cage, put
him in backwards. This way is he is less likely to kick or jump out of your
arms.
Rabbits, unlike other animals such as cats and dogs, generally do not like to
be held for very long.
Grooming
Most
rabbits need only a brushing once a week to keep them in good condition. Of
course if you own a long haired breed like an angora you may have to groom more
often. I use a soft bristled cat brush for brushing, and a slicker brush to remove
loose hair. If the rabbit is shedding a lot (usually 2-4 times/year) you will
need to brush him every day to keep him from ingesting too much hair which can
lead to the formation of hairballs. Rabbits are clean animals and groom
themselves by licking as cats do. However, they cannot throw-up hairballs like
cats and hairballs can lead to intestinal blockages.
Rabbits do not need to be bathed. If they are dirty you can spot clean them but
you shouldn't completely immerse them in water.
These grooming sessions are a good time to do the health
checks I mentioned earlier. It is also a good time to do nail
trimming if necessary.
Rabbits will occasionally need the
inside of their ears cleaned. A little sweet oil placed in the ear once a month
can help prevent ear mites and will help soften any ear wax.
Secretions from the scent glands in
the vent area of the rabbit also need cleaned occasionally by gently using a
wet Q-tip.
Litter Training
Rabbits may be litterbox trained. Some rabbits are easier trained than others. Neutered/spayed
rabbits are much easier to train. Litter training should first begin
inside the rabbits cage. First you must acquire a litter pan that is a proper
size for your rabbit. Small cat pans work well for small breeds, or you can use
a rectangular baking dish. Next place an inch or two of absorbent material in
the pan. Place the litterbox in an area of the cage where the rabbit prefers to
go. Usually a rabbit will pick one corner of its cage for its bathroom. Put
some of the rabbits dropping in the litterbox to attract the rabbit. Sometimes
the rabbit will immediately start using the box. If he starts going in another
corner, try moving the box to that corner. You may also put multiple pans in
his cage until he gets the idea and picks one to use.
The
next step is litter training outside the cage. Start with a small area outside
cage and gradually work up to a larger area of space. Giving the rabbit too
much freedom at first is likely to lead to much failure in his training. Place
a box in an area the rabbit has chosen. It is also helpful if the rabbit has
access to his cage. He can learn to go back to his cage to use the bathroom.
Once the rabbit is successfully using a box in a given area you can increase
his roaming area. Always make sure the area is "rabbit-proofed". Make
sure there are no electrical cords that can be chewed or any thing poisonous in
the area like plants or cleaning supplies which may be eaten. It is not a good
idea to leave the rabbit unattended while he is out of his cage. You can't
successfully train him if you aren't watching him. If you see him raise his
tail as to use the bathroom you should herd him toward his cage or a litterbox.
Litter
training isn't always easy. But don't give up if your rabbit doesn't catch on
right away. Persistence is the key. Sometimes younger rabbits take time to
learn. Spaying/neutering will also help. If you get an older rabbit don't
assume it is too old to learn to be litter trained. Older rabbits are sometimes
a lot easier to train. It is also common for a rabbit to urinate in his box but
leave droppings outside the box. The dropping are easily swept up though.
There
are many types of absorbent materials you can use in your rabbit's litterbox.
Some of these materials include shredded newspaper, aspen shavings, peat moss,
Carefresh litter, clay cat litter, hay, or even rabbit food pellets. Please see
the House
Rabbit Societypage for the pros and cons of using these types of
litter. Litter materials to avoid include clumping cat litter and cedar or pine
shavings.
There
are many advantages to litter training for both you and your rabbit. For the
rabbit, litter training can mean increased freedom in your household, and
therefore more exercise. For you it can decrease cleaning time and help
eliminate odors in your house.
Spaying and Neutering
If you
do not plan to breed your bunny it is best to have it spayed or neutered.
Female rabbits that are not bred can develop uterine cancer. Spaying will
eliminate this risk. Many behavior problems are also corrected with neutering.
Unneutered male rabbits often spray urine and their urine can become very
strong in odor. Aggressive behavior can also be eliminated by
spaying/neutering. It can also allow you to keep more than one rabbit in your
household without fighting or an unexis a good idea to find a rabbit vet anyway
in case of an emergency.
Toys For Your Bunny
Bunnies need toys to play with to keep them mentally stimulated and out of mischief. A bored bunny is a destructive bunny. You should give them toys that allow them to express their natural tendencies. For example, rabbits like to chew on things. To prevent them from chewing on things they shouldn't give them things that are safe to gnaw on such as cardboard, toilet paper rolls, and wooden chew toys(sold in pet stores). Rabbits also enjoy playing inside boxes. You can cut holes in the sides of a closed cardboard box and your rabbit will occupy himself for hours running in and out of the box. Rabbits also like to take naps in their new "house". They also have fun with paper bags. Cat toys or parrot toys that can be tossed also are amusing to rabbits.
